A watercolour on a blue backdrop. One would find it difficult to decide whether to admire the island or to live it. As the boat approaches the port of Livadi, most find themselves gazing up at the pure Cycladic town settled on the cliffs of Hora. Once you arrive, the challenge of finding the best beach begins. There are 72 altogether and each is better than the other. You will be left with the promise to yourself that you will be back to dedicate another summer in your quest to finding an answer to that question. You may have already fallen in love with the island forever. It was on beautiful Serifos that Danae found refuge with her son Perseus, the result of her union with Zeus. After discovering their affair, Danae’s father abandoned them to the sea. The King of Serifos, Polidefkis, sent Perseus to kill the mythical Medusa, crtain of his failure. Yet Perseus completed his mission and upon returning to Serifos produced the severed head of Medusa to Polidefkis, turning him and the beauty of the island into stone. The hilly landscape that is Serifos, hides rich mineral deposits which had brought wealth and economic independence after the 6th century BC. Fought the Persians in the Persian Wars and became a member of the Athenian Alliance. Subsequently, the island came under the control of Phillip’s Macedonia, the Ptolemians and finally to the Romans. Byzantium was the golden age for the island. After the fall of Constantinople in 1204, the Venetians conquered the island. The Turkish admiral Herentin Barabarossa took over in 1537, however between 1170 and 1774, the island was under Russian control. Serifos gained independence along with the other Cycladic islands at the end of the Greek War of Independence of 1821. The origin of the name of the island has its roots in the words, ‘sterfos’ or ‘stiros’, meaning barren – relating to the limited agricultural production. The island however has been blessed with greenery and water.
Serifos or Chora With 280 residents, it is located southeast and is the capital of the island Scattered precariously on the edge of a steep cliff face rising out of the sea, the homes of Hora were safe from the pirates’ raids. On top of the cliff, the castle ruins remain to defend the eternal church of Agios Konstantinos, which is built on even higher ground. As you approach Hora, the inaccessible character gives way to the pure Cycladic sense of style. Mills, chapels, and narrow cobble stoned laneways succumb to the embrace of the white with the background of the deep blue sky.
Worth Seeing • The collection of archaeological artifacts, that range from the Classical, Hellenistic and Roman Ages, housed in the neoclassical building that is the Town Hall at Agios Athanasios Square. • The Folklore Museum at Kato Hora, with exhibits on the traditional life on the island. • The remains of the Venetian Castle at the top of the hill. Noteworthy are the post Byzantine churches of Agios Athanasios (the cathedral), the church of the Evangelismos, Agios Eleftherios and Agios Konstantinos. • The monastery Taxiarhon is found on the north of the island and is 8 kilometres from Hora. On approach, you may confuse the monastery with a castle from the age of the pirate raiders. This is because it is enclosed with a large wall. Built at the turn of the 17th century AD, it had acquired fame and riches, a fact that resulted in many raids and pirates ransacking the monastery. For their protection, they built the high outer walls. • Admire the eagle carved in the floor of the garden, the wonderful temple, and the Alexandrian Tomb • A few kilometres down the road, the small beach of Platis Gialos awaits you.
Livadi With 300 residents, it is located east, 5 km from Hora and is the port of the island As the main port serving the island, Livadi is its main commercial and economic centre. The houses, shops, and farms are spread over a plain by the sea. Those homes that were most recently constructed reach the foot of the nearby hill and meet the houses on the edge of the town, Hora.
Where to swim • Avlomonas is the name of the sandy beach located in town. It is a shallow beach and ideal for young children. There are windsurfs and other watercrafts available for hire. • Enjoy a swim at the neighbouring beaches Lia, Kalo Ambeli, Agio Sostis, Agio Ioannis, and Psili Ammo. • Swim at Livadakia and Karavi and enjoy a lovely, relaxing day.
Megalo Livadi With 50 residents, it is located southwest and is 13 km from Hora A picturesque port with a pretty beach, which was at one point the main port used in the exportation of the island’s ore trade (19th century AD). The tradition of mining has its roots in ancient times as we know from the references to the rich deposits the island had in gold and iron ore. The port of Megalo Livadi serves the village, Megalo Horio, which is located only five kilometres away.
Worth Seeing • There are a number of post Byzantine churches in the area, with that of Agios Nikolaos standing out. • The monument dedicated to the four miners executed during the strike of 1916AD. They were striking for better working conditions, including the eight hour workday. It was after this bloody strike the mines closed down permanently. • The neighbouring village, Megalo Horio (literally big village) was an important economic point on the island during the period 1880 – 1912 AD. • Visit the deserted gold, iron and coppers mines and the neighbouring manors and workers cottages. The rusted tracks of the old mine, the overturned carriages and the silos that remain – a surviving image of the past.
Where to swim • Swim at the beach at Megalo Horio and at Malliadiko, at Koutala or at Ganema.
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